A dripping faucet is almost always one worn part. On a two-handle (compression) faucet, it’s a hardened rubber washer pressing against a pitted valve seat. On a single-handle faucet — cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc — it’s a worn cartridge or a set of O-rings, springs, and seals. So the fix is simple: figure out which type of faucet you have, shut off the water, take the valve apart, and replace the one part that’s worn. Below we do it by type. For a broader walkthrough of faucet anatomy and leaks that aren’t drips (leaks at the base, spray hose, or handle), see our general faucet repair guide.
Identify your faucet type first
You can’t buy the right part until you know what’s inside. Look at the handles first, then pull one apart if you’re unsure. These four cover almost every home faucet in North America.
| Type | How to spot it | Usual drip fix |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two handles (hot and cold) that keep tightening as you close them — you’re screwing a stem down against a seat. Common on older and budget faucets. | Replace the rubber washer; clean or replace the valve seat. |
| Cartridge | One or two handles that stop at a firm limit (no endless tightening). A cylindrical cartridge lifts and rotates to mix water. Brands like Moen and many one-handle bath faucets. | Replace the whole cartridge with the exact match for your brand/model. |
| Ball | Single handle that swivels in every direction — up/down for flow, side to side for temperature. Very common on older Delta and Peerless kitchen faucets. | Install a ball-faucet repair kit: springs, rubber seats, and cam/gasket. |
| Ceramic disc | Single lever, wide cylindrical body, very smooth action. Two ceramic discs slide over each other. The most durable modern design. | Clean or replace the neoprene seals; replace the disc cartridge if scored. |
How to fix it, step by step
Whatever the type, the golden rule is the same: shut off the water and plug the drain before you touch a screw. A dropped screw or spring in an open drain turns a 20-minute job into an afternoon.
Two-handle (compression)
- Shut the stop valves under the sink (turn clockwise). No stops? Close the main. Open the tap to drain the line and release pressure.
- Plug the drain with a rag or the stopper so nothing falls in.
- Fix the side that drips — hot drip means the hot handle, cold drip the cold. Pry off the decorative cap, remove the handle screw, and lift the handle off.
- Unscrew the packing nut with an adjustable wrench, then back the stem out (turn it the “on” direction to thread it up and out).
- At the bottom of the stem is a rubber washer held by a brass screw. Remove it and take it to the store for an exact match — size and shape matter.
- Shine a light into the faucet body at the valve seat. If it feels rough or pitted, that’s why washers keep failing. Reface it with a seat-grinding tool, or unthread it with a seat wrench and drop in a new one.
- Fit the new washer, dab the threads and stem with plumber’s grease, and reassemble in reverse.
- Turn the stops back on slowly and run the faucet. Watch for a full minute — no drip, no leak at the packing nut.
Single-handle (cartridge / ball / disc)
- Shut the stop valves, open the faucet to drain, and plug the drain. Lay a towel in the sink to catch small parts.
- Remove the handle. Usually there’s a small hex set screw under a cap or on the side of the handle — an Allen key removes it. Lift the handle off.
- Take off the retaining piece: a dome/collar nut on cartridge and ball faucets, or a chrome cap and screws on a disc faucet.
- Cartridge: pull the retaining clip with pliers, then pull the cartridge straight up (a cartridge puller helps if it’s stuck). Note its orientation — install the new one the same way, or hot and cold will swap. Match the replacement to your faucet’s brand and model; a Moen two-handle uses a 1224, but other lines use different cartridges, so bring the old one or your model number to the store.
- Ball: lift out the cam, ball, and rubber seats. Use the tool in the repair kit to fish out the two springs and rubber seats down in the body, then drop in the new springs, seats, ball, and cam from the kit.
- Ceramic disc: lift out the disc cartridge and pull the neoprene seals from the underside. Clean any scale (a soak in white vinegar clears mineral buildup) and reseat the seals; if the disc surface is scored, replace the whole cartridge.
- Replace any O-rings on the faucet body while you’re in there, and coat new O-rings and seals with plumber’s grease so they seat without tearing.
- Reassemble in reverse, turn the water back on slowly, and test hot and cold for a full minute.
If the drip is really coming from the spout swivel or the sprayer on a kitchen unit, that’s a different repair — see our guide to common kitchen faucet problems.
Tools & parts you’ll need
- Adjustable wrench (and slip-joint pliers)
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Set of Allen (hex) keys for set screws
- Seat wrench and/or a seat-grinding tool (compression faucets only)
- Cartridge puller (handy for stuck cartridges)
- The correct replacement part: washer assortment, O-ring kit, brand-matched cartridge, or a ball-faucet repair kit
- Plumber’s (silicone) grease
- Rag or drain plug, plus a towel and a small light
- White vinegar for descaling ceramic-disc and cartridge parts
DIY cost vs. calling a pro
This is one of the best value DIY plumbing jobs — the part is cheap, and the labor is what a plumber actually charges for.
| Repair | DIY parts cost | Pro cost (parts + labor) |
|---|---|---|
| Compression washer + seat | $3–$15 | $150–$300 |
| Cartridge replacement | $10–$45 (e.g., Moen 1224 ~$12–$20) | $150–$350 |
| Ball-faucet repair kit | $15–$30 | $150–$300 |
| Ceramic disc seals / cartridge | $8–$40 | $175–$350 |
Most of a plumber’s bill is the minimum service call (often $100–$175 just to show up). If you already own basic tools, doing it yourself typically saves $140–$330.
Difficulty & time
Beginner to easy-intermediate. A compression washer swap runs about 15–30 minutes; a cartridge, ball, or disc job runs 30–60 minutes the first time, faster once you’ve done it.
When to call a licensed plumber
- The stop valves won’t close or the main shutoff is stuck or leaking.
- The valve seat or cartridge is seized/corroded and won’t budge, or the faucet body itself is cracked.
- You’ve replaced the worn part and it still drips (see the FAQ below first).
- Water is leaking behind the wall, under the cabinet, or the shutoffs weep after you’re done.
- The faucet is old, discontinued, or so corroded that replacing the whole unit makes more sense than repairing it.
FAQ
Which cartridge do I need?
Match it to your faucet’s brand and model, not just “single-handle.” The fastest route is to pull the old cartridge and take it to the store, or check the model number stamped on the faucet or in your paperwork. A Moen two-handle commonly takes a 1224, but single-handle lines and other brands (Delta, Kohler, Price Pfister) each use their own — a universal-looking part that’s slightly off will leak.
My faucet still drips after a new cartridge — why?
Usually one of three things: the cartridge is the wrong model, an O-ring or rubber seat inside the body is torn or wasn’t replaced, or debris/scale on the seat is holding the valve open. Shut the water, pull it apart again, and check the O-rings and seats. On ball and disc faucets, the springs/seals in the body matter as much as the moving part itself.
How do I know if it’s the washer or the seat?
Replace the washer first — it’s the cheap, likely culprit. If a fresh washer still drips within days, the valve seat is pitted and chewing up washers; reface or replace the seat.
Do I really have to shut off the water?
Yes. Even with the tap “open,” the supply lines are under pressure — pull a valve apart without shutting the stops and you’ll get a face full of water. Close the stops under the sink (or the main), then open the faucet to bleed the pressure.
Could the drip be water pressure, not the faucet?
A single dripping faucet is a worn part, not pressure. But if faucets across the house sputter or run weak, that’s a supply issue — see our guide to low water pressure throughout the whole house.
Sources: manufacturer replacement-part guidance from Moen customer support, and repair-method references from This Old House.